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He wanted to encourage more outside contact and to project an image other than one of religious austerity (with bursts of terrorism).The Saudis had already cracked open the door slightly for some degree of cultural tourism.The preservation of these 500 houses surrounding a souk marks an attempt by the Saudis, whose oil profits turned them into bling addicts, to appreciate the beauty of what they dismissively call “old stuff.”Jidda means “grandmother” in Arabic, and the city may have gotten its name because tradition holds that the grandmother of all temptresses, the biblical Eve, is buried here—an apt symbol for a country that legally, sexually, and sartorially buries its women alive.

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To this day the Koran is the constitution of Saudi Arabia, and Wahhabism its dominant faith.

Just the vacation spot for a headstrong, adventure-loving, cocktail-imbibing, fashion-conscious chick.

Long averse to non-Muslim curiosity seekers, the Kingdom is now flirting with tourism, though drinking is forbidden and women can’t drive—or do much of anything—without a man.

) According to legend, when Adam and Eve were evicted from the Garden of Eden they went their separate ways, Adam ending up in Mecca and Eve in Jidda, with a single reunion. ) Eve’s cemetery lies behind a weathered green door in Old Jidda.

When I suggested we visit, Abdullah smiled with sweet exasperation.

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