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She also had a prawn and tomato consommé, roasted pork belly and carrot purée (a reduced version of my main course), braised pearl onion and bacon ragout, veal meatballs in a smoked tomato and tarragon sauce, and a most unusual creamed parsnip and fynbos honey soup!

My starter was a crumbed chicken ballotine, with an exceptional crispy outer band, served with carrot purée, and smoked beetroot.

One guest who is clued up on the development is Joe Wright, who has been coming to the hotel for 20 years. Taking the dark elevator back down to the lower floor, it drops and whooshes down the airshaft as if guests are hurtling through a gale in a wooden box.

“I wasn’t at all surprised,” he tells In his junior suite on the 15th floor, he points out the rose-patterned carpet, the poky storage space and the framed photograph of a Guerlain model, which looks a bit dusty. Yet the businessman in his sixties has stayed in this hotel, every year for two decades, for work trips from the UK to New York in the safety and testing industry. The lobby is more serene, with soft jazz echoing off white marble walls and plush carpets, once tread upon by Frank Sinatra and the Duke of Windsor after he abdicated the throne to marry Wallis Simpson. A woman in sparkling stilettos is on the phone, sorting through her Burberry handbag.

Once I got through, a very friendly assistant in the Tasting Room gave clear directions, which the restaurant may consider sharing on the website.Various major hotels in New York City have recently been closed or renovated, including the Hotel Chelsea, the Beekman and the Roxy.The famous Plaza hotel was closed between 20 while it underwent a 0 million renovation, turning several floors into 181 condominiums.The menu changes daily, and has a Tapas option, as well as a two/three course option, which changes daily, Chef Nic said, influenced by what is in the fridge, in the vegetable garden, and what his team feel like preparing.The menu is only posted a day or so ahead, so one must check if one likes what is on the menu for that day, as no options are offered.

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